Camber (the tilt)
Negative camber tilts the top of the wheel inward. Under cornering load, the tire deforms outward — negative camber means the contact patch flattens at the limit, giving max grip. Too much, and you're running on the inside edge in straight lines (slow).
Default starts: -1.5 to -2.5 deg front, -1.0 to -2.0 deg rear. If you're a "trim by symptom" driver: more negative camber up front = more turn-in bite, more rear negative camber = more high-speed cornering stability (at a cost in tire heat).
Caster (the lean of the steering axis)
Caster is the angle of the kingpin axis viewed from the side. More caster = more self-centering, more dynamic camber when steering, more steering effort. In FH, most setups want 5-7 degrees positive caster front. Higher = sharper feel; lower = lighter, vaguer.
Toe (the splay)
- Front toe-out (e.g., -0.1 to -0.3 deg) = sharper turn-in, twitchier on straights.
- Front toe-in = stable on straights, slightly lazy turn-in.
- Rear toe-in (e.g., +0.1 to +0.2 deg) = stable rear, slight understeer penalty. Almost always positive on the rear.
- Rear toe-out = rotational but very unstable. Drift setups only.
Putting it together
Most grip-focused tunes land near: -2 front camber, -1.5 rear camber, 5.5 caster, -0.1 front toe (slight out), +0.15 rear toe (slight in). Then trim by symptom.